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Multimeter. The multimeter needed to do these tests is an inexpensive () handheld analog one having a needle-deflection readout, and run by an AA-battery. Although multimeters can make several electronic measurements, the only two needed here will be the 150-VAC (volts alternating current) and the resistance (ohms) ones. Otherwise, a multimeter is kept in the off setting to save the battery.
For mini-lights, a multimeter can be used to test the following issues.
The circuitry voltage (120-VAC) while plugged into an outlet. These two wires work independently from the bulb wire attached to them in a three-wire string.
The continuity of the two 3-amp buss fuses in the male plug if the circuitry was not working when tested while plugged in.
The continuity of each circuitry wire (hot & cold) if the circuitry was not working when tested.
The continuity of individual bulbs (i.e., for non-working filaments and bypass shunts, and for slightly corroded lead wires).
Safety. Since 120-volts of electricity pass through most mini-light strings, basic safety and correct procedures are paramount in testing them. Persons who know nothing about electricity, nor how-to-use a multimeter, should at least read-up on these subjects. Better yet, get professional hands-on training on them. Otherwise, the string and multimeter could be damaged, not to mention the tester him or herself.
Step 1. Test the circuitry. Plug the non-working string into a working outlet. Set the multimeter to150-VAC. Insert one multimeter probe into each of two female-plug sockets. (Most mini-light plugs are two prong.) The readout should be about 120-VAC, which means the circuitry is okay. If no reading occurs, double check the probe contacts in the female plug. If still no reading, unplug the string, and do the next step.
Step 2. Test the fuses for continuity (unplugged). Slide open the panel door on the male plug. Set the multimeter to a moderate resistance setting (inexpensive multimeters will have only one setting). Touch its probes together. The reading should go to zero, i.e., the needle will defect to zero.
Touch one multimeter probe to each end of one fuse simultaneously. If the deflection reading is zero for each fuse, they are okay. If not, replace the ones not having continuity; they can be found in hardware stores. It might be easier to do this test by removing the fuses first, and then testing each one outside the male plug.
Step 3. Test the circuitry wires for continuity (unplugged). If the fuses are okay at this point, insert one multimeter probe (still set to resistance) into one of the female plug sockets while the string is still unplugged. Touch the other probe to one of the male plug-in leads at the other end of the string. If no reading occurs, touch the other male lead instead. One of these two male leads should yield a zero reading for a good (continuous, unbroken) wire at this time. Perform the same test from the second female-plug socket.
If both wires do not give a zero continuity reading, something is wrong with the circuit wiring. Visually check these wires for damage. Repair any damage, if found, and retest them. If the circuit wires now show continuity, and the bulbs are still out, move to the next step.
Step 4. Test the individual bulbs for continuity (unplugged). Because the bulbs in question must be removed for this test, this process is much slower than by examining them with a magnifier and background light. Still, surprisingly, a few bulbs that look okay with the magnifier might not test okay with the multimeter.
Thus, the multimeter's probes must make good contact with each of the bulb's lead wires for a successful test. That kind of contact can be assured by scratching the bulb's wire leads with a sharp-edged tool until shiny before testing them. Replace any bulbs testing bad (no continuity).
Conclusion. Experts indicate the lifetime of the incandescent mini-light bulb is 3-to-5 years, depending on its amount of usage. After maintaining these light strings for that length of time, it is time to get new strings. If the same kind are purchased, the old ones can be used for spare parts and bulbs. Yet, the LED (light-emitting diode) strings might be a good option to consider at this point. They last longer than the incandescent ones, and they use up to 10-times less electricity.
To learn more about multimeters and how to use them, see the following sites.
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Before you know if you need to apply lime to your lawn, you need to know the pH level of your soil. The pH level will indicate whether your lawn soil is too acidic or alkaline. The pH level range from 1.0 to 14.0. A value of 1.0 indicate greatest acidity and a value of 14.0 indicates greatest alkaline. A desirable or balanced pH level is between 6.5 and 7.0. If your lawn soil has a pH level in this range, your grasses will grow healthily and there is less chance of weeds growing. If the pH level of your lawn soil is less than 6.5, it is acidic and you have to add lime to bring it back to balance.
In general, when there is an growth in rainfall, the acidity of your soil will also increase. Other factors that can cause acidity comprise irrigating with water that has a high acid content and decomposition of organic matter.
You can buy a soil test kit from your nearest nursery or organery town to test your lawn soil pH. However, the test consequent will only tell you if your soil is acidic or alkaline. You will not know how much lime is required to bring the soil back to balance. A best alternative is to send a soil sample to a soil test lab for testing. You can look up the yellow pages to find one that is placed in your vicinity. Once the soil test is completed by the lab, you will receive a report with an strict determination of your soil chemistry and composition. There should be a section in the report indicating the whole of lime you need to apply to your lawn.
There are a few type of lime ready in the market. The most tasteless type being pulverized limestone, which is relatively inexpensive. an additional one type is dolomitic limestone, which comprise magnesium. This is used when the soil test indicates that your soil is low in magnesium. The more costly type of lime is pelletized limestone, which is cleaner and easier to apply. When applying time, you should use a rototiller to work the lime into the soil for best result.
You can apply lime any time while the growing season but not when the grasses are wilted or frost covered. Do not apply fertilizer immediately after a lime application. Give the lime about two weeks to heighten the soil before applying fertilizer. If you have a new lawn, you should apply the lime before planting any seed.
A soil test should be done every three to four years. Apply lime to your soil only when the test consequent indicates such necessity. Too much lime will cause your soil pH to go off balance, which will lead to other lawn problems. As long as you are able to pronounce a balanced pH level for your soil, your lawn will have a easier time to grow healthily.
